Exquisite antique 1910's metallic brocade, trained gown. Very much in the style of the iconic "Eleonara" gowns designed by Henriette Nigrin and her husband Mariano Fortuny. Constructed from the most beautiful cerulean blue silk with a woven, burnished gold floral print. Likely hand-dyed as the color exhibits an extraordinary amount of depth. Pleated Indigo blue tissue silk side panels. Drawstrings under the arms (on the interior) help to fit the dress to the wearer. Green, white and gold Murano glass beads accent the metallic loops along the sleeves.
Mel's Notes: While not a Nigrin/Fortuny design (as confirmed by the current Design Director at Fortuny), I think it's feasible this gown was a custom commission ordered through Vitaldo Babani's retail shop, possibly fashioned from Liberty of London fabric. Babani had a license to sell both Fortuny designs and Liberty textiles, and the gown was discovered in a traveling case along with a matching little girl's dress that bore the signature Liberty of London smocking and criss-cross buttons. Interesting side note - Paul Poiret also had a license to sell Fortuny designs during this time period. Whatever the case may be, it's an intriguing example of the complex relationship between early 20th century couturiers, retailers and independent dressmakers.
P.S. Wearing this was like wearing LIQUID. The way it drapes is unlike any other dress I've ever worn.
- 100% silk
- brocade part of dress is in good condition - strong and supple, but with patina; a few small frayed areas at the front as well as some staining; underarm discoloration; hemline has been repaired as it was splitting. The silk pleated sections are heavily shattered near the cuffs and hem (from about the knee down); ecru tissue silk lining was badly shattered and has been removed; a fair amount of the Murano glass beads are missing and may not be original to the gown.
Fits: up to size M
38" Bust / 14.25" Shoulder / 23.5" Sleeve Length / 55" Overall Length